The Sewing Place

Shoulder slope adjustment created another problem

RachelB

Shoulder slope adjustment created another problem
« on: February 06, 2024, 00:13:17 AM »
I had some problem with armhole gaping that I asked about recently.   I cut a smaller size in the upper front bodice,  but when i made the toile, the armhole gaping was the same.  I put on my previous toile (prior to this one) and pinched the shoulder slope some and the armhole gaping went away. I did not need any adjustment on the back armhole, so I just dropped the slope by 3/4 inch at the shoulder on the front bodice. I did this by starting at the neckline and drew the line until it was 3/4 inch lower at the shoulder seam. Then I took off the same amount under the arm on the front bodice. This way I did not have to adjust my sleeve. Two problems developed from this. First, I forgot to lengthen the side seam of the front bodice by the amount I took off the bottom of the armhole, so I know how to fix that just by adding that length back. But the one I don't know how to fix is the second problem that developed. Now, the shoulder length of the front bodice is not the same as the back bodice. When I put the shoulders together to sew the seams, they are not the same length and the difference is enough that I can't ease them together so that they match. How do I fix this problem? Thanks.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2024, 00:16:20 AM by RachelB »

toileandtrouble

Re: Shoulder slope adjustment created another problem
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2024, 01:33:55 AM »
A slim dart, a couple of inches or so long,  in the middle of the back shoulder.  I have seen this on some older fitted patterns anyway.  If your shoulders curve forwards (too much desk work?) you will definitely need this.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

toileandtrouble

Re: Shoulder slope adjustment created another problem
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2024, 02:03:45 AM »
Also, look at advice on 'high round back adjustment'.  We often develop this problem as we age.  Description might give you some ideas.  Adding up all you have done seems to tend towards this.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

RachelB

Re: Shoulder slope adjustment created another problem
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2024, 02:31:03 AM »
Also, look at advice on 'high round back adjustment'.  We often develop this problem as we age.  Description might give you some ideas.  Adding up all you have done seems to tend towards this.
Thank you so much.