upper bust measurement question

[RachelB]

After having tried everything else, I have decided that part of my fitting problems is that I am making the wrong size. I have always used the upper bust measurement, but my pattern is a Style Arc pattern, and they only give the full bust finished measurement.  I tried to determine the upper bust measurement of the pattern by measuring from the bottom of the armscye horizontally across the front and back bodice pieces, but my measurement matched their finished full bust measurement.  So, I did that incorrectly. Where on the front and back bodice pattern pieces would I measure to figure out the upper bust measurement?  Would I start at the midpoint of the armscye and go across?  I have googled to find the answer to this question, but all I get is how to measure the upper bust on my body, not a pattern piece.  Thanks.

[Ouryve]

For standard sizing ranges with no bust size options offered, most pattern companies design for a B cup. The exceptions I've encountered are Deer and Doe and True Bias, which are a C cup and they've both mentioned this in their pattern bumpf.


Just is bra on, of course, but are you measuring your overbust bra off?

[BrendaP]

Upper bust measuring line is likely to be around 10cm/4 inches higher than the full bust apex point - but  measure that on yorself and then measure the patterrn at that level remembering that there will be wearing ease, and possibly fasion ease included in the pattern.

Are there balance notches on the bodice and sleeves?  They are often at high bust level.

[HenriettaMaria]

If you are trying to calculate how much of a full bust adjustment you need to make, the upper bust/under arm measurement is taken.  Then the over bust/maximum circumference measurement is taken.  The difference between the two is what defines the cup size.  If you are greater than a B cup then you will have to make a FBA to the pattern.

Personally, I'd say that the upper bust is more useful for defining which size of pattern you need as this is determined by your build - I once bought a (UK) size 16 pattern for the bust size and the shoulders were hanging off me!  There are lots of video tutorials out there showing you how to work this out and how to make a FBA.  I even found one for T-shirt patterns that then 'lost' the adjustment in the side seam and hem (the hem at the front dipped but when worn it looked level).

[RachelB]

For standard sizing ranges with no bust size options offered, most pattern companies design for a B cup. The exceptions I've encountered are Deer and Doe and True Bias, which are a C cup and they've both mentioned this in their pattern bumpf.


Just is bra on, of course, but are you measuring your overbust bra off?

Thank you.  It is nice to hear there is a pattern company designing for larger than B cup.

[RachelB]

Upper bust measuring line is likely to be around 10cm/4 inches higher than the full bust apex point - but  measure that on yorself and then measure the patterrn at that level remembering that there will be wearing ease, and possibly fasion ease included in the pattern.

Are there balance notches on the bodice and sleeves?  They are often at high bust level.

Thank you.  There are notches so I will check that againt the 4 inches and myself.

[Ouryve]

There are a few indies with cup size options in some of their styles - I've come.across this in a few, including somebLiesl & Co and Itch to Stitch patterns as well as, of course, Cashmerette, who go up to a G/H cup and support making bigger adjustments, if needed.

[RachelB]

If you are trying to calculate how much of a full bust adjustment you need to make, the upper bust/under arm measurement is taken.  Then the over bust/maximum circumference measurement is taken.  The difference between the two is what defines the cup size.  If you are greater than a B cup then you will have to make a FBA to the pattern.

Personally, I'd say that the upper bust is more useful for defining which size of pattern you need as this is determined by your build - I once bought a (UK) size 16 pattern for the bust size and the shoulders were hanging off me!  There are lots of video tutorials out there showing you how to work this out and how to make a FBA.  I even found one for T-shirt patterns that then 'lost' the adjustment in the side seam and hem (the hem at the front dipped but when worn it looked level).

Thank you.  I am trying trying to find my size using Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide technique.  Measuring from armhole crease to armhole crease did not work for me in determining the size because it put me in a size larger than I had been sewing, which definitely won't work.  Someone who uses this technique told me to use the upper bust.  My pattern does not give upper bust, but only full bust.  The pattern is drafted for a B cup which should be the upper bust 2 inches smaller, but I just want to be sure. 

[RachelB]

There are a few indies with cup size options in some of their styles - I've come.across this in a few, including somebLiesl & Co and Itch to Stitch patterns as well as, of course, Cashmerette, who go up to a G/H cup and support making bigger adjustments, if needed.

Thank you. 

[Ohsewsimple]

@RachelB if the pattern is drafted for a B cup then yes the upper bust or chest measurement will be approximately 2” smaller than the full bust measurement.  This does not mean that the pattern will measure that amount.  There has to be some wearing ease so that you can breath and move.  So measuring a pattern may not help you.
If you know a pattern is designed for a B cup and you only have the full bust measurement then subtract 2” to give you the upper bust measurement. 

[RachelB]

@RachelB if the pattern is drafted for a B cup then yes the upper bust or chest measurement will be approximately 2” smaller than the full bust measurement.  This does not mean that the pattern will measure that amount.  There has to be some wearing ease so that you can breath and move.  So measuring a pattern may not help you.
If you know a pattern is designed for a B cup and you only have the full bust measurement then subtract 2” to give you the upper bust measurement.

Thank you.  That is what I will do.  I tried to find the location on the pattern of the upper bust, and when I measured, my amount was too far below what I know it should be close to, so I will just go with the 2".