bias wrinkles with photo, finally

[RachelB]

I finally have a photo of the fitting problem I have been having. When I posted about this before, a couple of responders asked for a photo.  The bias wrinkles are on the right back bodice and can be seen in the picture.   I bought a book called The Sew/Fit Manual and it says that bias wrinkles  indicate that something is too wide and too long. But, I am not sure what is too wide and too long, since I don't really have these wrinkles on the left hand side of the back bodice.  When I was sewing several years ago, I never had this problem, and those clothes still fit.  I can't imagine what has happened.  Does anyone know how to fix this?

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Whilst I have no experience of fitting things that tight, I would suggest that you think about how and which way would you smooth/push/pull the fabric to smooth out those wrinkles - that could be where the problem lies.  In this instance it looks like the right hand armhole and shoulder would need raising a tad, or it could be just the side seam is a bit too long - but don't take my word for it, as I say, I have no experience with things like this 

[Helen M]

Maybe your right shoulder is lower than your left so maybe lifting that would help. Other wise i think maybe the pattern needs a tuck between the armhole and waistline. Is it the same on the front or back only?

Looking again at photo your left shoulder blade seems more prominent than the right so that could be where the problem lies. Our bodies are not the same on both sides. Are you right or left handed?

[RachelB]

Whilst I have no experience of fitting things that tight, I would suggest that you think about how and which way would you smooth/push/pull the fabric to smooth out those wrinkles - that could be where the problem lies.  In this instance it looks like the right hand armhole and shoulder would need raising a tad, or it could be just the side seam is a bit too long - but don't take my word for it, as I say, I have no experience with things like this 

Thank you.  I am wondering if the side seams might not be the same. I moved the dart down on the front so I may have messed up the length. 

[RachelB]

Maybe your right shoulder is lower than your left so maybe lifting that would help. Other wise i think maybe the pattern needs a tuck between the armhole and waistline. Is it the same on the front or back only?

Looking again at photo your left shoulder blade seems more prominent than the right so that could be where the problem lies. Our bodies are not the same on both sides. Are you right or left handed?

Thank you.  I did not realize that about my shoulder blades, but when I look, I see that.  I will try adjusting the shoulder.  Also, I think I am going to take out the side seam and see where it falls naturally.  I am right handed.

[Ploshkin]

It looks quite clear to me in the photo that your right shoulder is higher than your left, not lower.  I think that can occur through always keeping your shoulder positioned to stop a bag sliding off.  The neck is ok so you need to change the angle of the shoulder slope and lift the armhole, then look again.
I have the same issue - it is surprising how different your shape can be each side.

[RachelB]

It looks quite clear to me in the photo that your right shoulder is higher than your left, not lower.  I think that can occur through always keeping your shoulder positioned to stop a bag sliding off.  The neck is ok so you need to change the angle of the shoulder slope and lift the armhole, then look again.
I have the same issue - it is surprising how different your shape can be each side.

Thank you so much.  I want to make sure I understand, so do I need to take a bigger or smaller shoulder seam on the muslin?  Will this lift the armhole, or is lifting the armhole a separate change?  Also, do I need to make that change just on the back bodice, or do I need to include those changes on the right side of the front bodice too? 

[Ouryve]

Just play with pinning or tacking the seams and see what effect it has.

[Ploshkin]

If the neck is right you may need to add a bit to the armhole end of the shoulder seam so that the slope is a flatter angle.  You will need to experiment to see whether you need   to add in a bit to the front as well - maybe not.   Just do one bit at a time until you've eliminated all the issues. The armhole shape will need to move up with the shoulder

[RachelB]

If the neck is right you may need to add a bit to the armhole end of the shoulder seam so that the slope is a flatter angle.  You will need to experiment to see whether you need   to add in a bit to the front as well - maybe not.   Just do one bit at a time until you've eliminated all the issues. The armhole shape will need to move up with the shoulder

Thank you. I redrew the back bodice this afternoon and did separate ones for the right and left hand side.  On the right hand side I raised the shoulder seam by 1/2" and did the same to the lower armhole.   I am anxious to sew another muslin, but it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.

[RachelB]

Just play with pinning or tacking the seams and see what effect it has.

Thank you.  Sadly, I only have a 3/8" seam allowances on this pattern instead of my preferred 5/8", so I don't have much to experiment with.  I redrew the back bodice, raising the right shoulder and the lower armhole by 1/2".  I don't know if that is enough, but hopefully it will help and then I can get a better idea of how much I need. When I cut it out, I am going to cut 5/8" seams so that will give me more the experiment with.

[Catllar]

It looks a bit tight over the hips too, so that might give a bit of drag. Undo the seams down into the hips too.

[BrendaP]

Toiles shoud always have a big seam allowance!

Is the waist seam sitting where your natural waist is?  Tie a length of narrow elastic around your waist (over the toile) and  move around to allow it to settle.  Does it want to be on the seam line?