The Sewing Place

do I need to lengthen the back bodice?

RachelB

do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« on: March 18, 2024, 12:46:02 PM »
I am having these diagonal draglines on my shoulder blade as is pictured here.  I could not get a picture of my back because my husband was not at home to take it, but I am having the exact same issue as is in this picture I found by googling. I don't think I have a rounded back because I have very good posture.  It is something that people comment to me about.  Do I need to lengthen the back bodice to correct this fitting issue? Thanks.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2024, 13:36:46 PM »
To my very inexperienced eye, that pic says the armholes aren't deep enough, but of course I may well be wrong.  Do you need to make it so tight?  A little bit looser fit would make wrinkles much less of an issue.

Lachica

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2024, 14:02:56 PM »
I agree with @Bodgeitandscarper but I'm not an expert either.
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

RachelB

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2024, 15:43:55 PM »
To my very inexperienced eye, that pic says the armholes aren't deep enough, but of course I may well be wrong.  Do you need to make it so tight?  A little bit looser fit would make wrinkles much less of an issue.
I fixed my front armhole gaping, which raised the armhole.  I think that is what brought on this problem.  I am not sure how to address the front armhole gaping problem without creating this one.

Ouryve

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2024, 16:12:32 PM »
Is the side seam still where it needs to be or has your fix pulled it towards the front?
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

coffeeandcake

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2024, 16:17:43 PM »
It looks as though your  fabric is wider at the front of the shoulder seams  than at the back.
Is this due to having raised the shoulders at the front to get rid of the gaping that you had? If you have raised the shoulders at the front then reduce the back shoulder seam allowance by the same amount as you increased the front shoulder seam allowance.
ETA I was also wondering the same as what @Ouryve has said: you appear to have some
pulling underneath the arms - possibly due to the seam being pulled forward.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2024, 16:23:21 PM by coffeeandcake »

Catllar

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2024, 17:22:45 PM »
If the gaping was at the front armhole originally (?) and you got rid of that, which has left the armhole too tight then I'd suggest a small FBA which should fix the front gaping and then the armhole should find it's correct level again and then you back wrinkle/drag lines will go.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Ohsewsimple

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2024, 17:59:32 PM »
The photo you’ve linked to here really doesn’t look the same as your toile you showed previously     It’s very difficult to assess using some other photo I’m afraid.  But I’d say this is not the same issue. 
To be able to assess a fitting problem properly it’s important to see the whole thing. 
I like to see a full front, full back and side photos, standing normally,  to be able to check.  There may be drag lines or wrinkles in one place but it doesn’t always mean that is where the problem is.  It can be caused somewhere else. 
I know it’s frustrating.  :(  Fitting is a whole subject on its own. 

I would also suggest that as @BrendaP said, make sure seam allowances are large.  I use a minimum of 1”.  Regardless of what the pattern allows, add to it.  That way you have plenty to alter the toile.  It is not necessary to keep making new toiles. The point of a toile is to check fit, rip, draw or scribble on it, add pieces of fabric in where needed.  You do this till you get it to fit.  If you keep making new ones you probably won’t know what you’ve done by the time you finish. 

Another tip I would suggest that I find absolutely essential in fitting people.  Use a ballpoint pen. Draw your waistline across the toile.  Draw the hip line across the toile.  Draw the back line about midway between the armhole across the back.  Draw the bustline across the toile.  Draw the centre front and  centre back if necessary on the toile.  Don’t add a zip or you won’t be able to adjust the centre back.  It’s often easier to use a centre front opening to pin yourself in if no one can help.  That’s where marking CF and CB is a good idea. 
Once the lines are all marked it’s easy to see if the lines are not level, if they tip up, down, sideways.  Anything else is just guess work!


RachelB

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2024, 18:11:20 PM »
Is the side seam still where it needs to be or has your fix pulled it towards the front?

Thank you.  I will check to see.

RachelB

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2024, 18:12:52 PM »
It looks as though your  fabric is wider at the front of the shoulder seams  than at the back.
Is this due to having raised the shoulders at the front to get rid of the gaping that you had? If you have raised the shoulders at the front then reduce the back shoulder seam allowance by the same amount as you increased the front shoulder seam allowance.
ETA I was also wondering the same as what @Ouryve has said: you appear to have some
pulling underneath the arms - possibly due to the seam being pulled forward.
The shoulders were raised.  I will adjust the seam allowance on the back.  Also, I will check the side seams.  Thank you.

RachelB

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2024, 18:16:14 PM »
The photo you’ve linked to here really doesn’t look the same as your toile you showed previously     It’s very difficult to assess using some other photo I’m afraid.  But I’d say this is not the same issue. 
To be able to assess a fitting problem properly it’s important to see the whole thing. 
I like to see a full front, full back and side photos, standing normally,  to be able to check.  There may be drag lines or wrinkles in one place but it doesn’t always mean that is where the problem is.  It can be caused somewhere else. 
I know it’s frustrating.  :(  Fitting is a whole subject on its own. 

I would also suggest that as @BrendaP said, make sure seam allowances are large.  I use a minimum of 1”.  Regardless of what the pattern allows, add to it.  That way you have plenty to alter the toile.  It is not necessary to keep making new toiles. The point of a toile is to check fit, rip, draw or scribble on it, add pieces of fabric in where needed.  You do this till you get it to fit.  If you keep making new ones you probably won’t know what you’ve done by the time you finish. 

Another tip I would suggest that I find absolutely essential in fitting people.  Use a ballpoint pen. Draw your waistline across the toile.  Draw the hip line across the toile.  Draw the back line about midway between the armhole across the back.  Draw the bustline across the toile.  Draw the centre front and  centre back if necessary on the toile.  Don’t add a zip or you won’t be able to adjust the centre back.  It’s often easier to use a centre front opening to pin yourself in if no one can help.  That’s where marking CF and CB is a good idea. 
Once the lines are all marked it’s easy to see if the lines are not level, if they tip up, down, sideways.  Anything else is just guess work!

Thank you so much!  I am going to tell my husband that he has to stay home and nearby when I am sewing so he can snap pictures.  :laughing:  This pattern has 3/8" seams so I will make them larger.  Drawing the bustline and center front and back is a great idea!  I did not think of that.  Thank you.

Ohsewsimple

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2024, 22:03:25 PM »
Thank you so much!  I am going to tell my husband that he has to stay home and nearby when I am sewing so he can snap pictures.  :laughing:  This pattern has 3/8" seams so I will make them larger.  Drawing the bustline and center front and back is a great idea!  I did not think of that.  Thank you.


 :laughing:  Oh I’m sure he will!  But you can use a phone and a support of some kind.  I find phones or an iPad are invaluable for fitting. I can go back and look and zoom in as well. 

For the lines, make sure you draw ALL of them on.  It takes a bit of time but it is so worth it. The horizontal lines should be at right angles to the CF or CB.  The lines on the garment should be perfectly horizontal on the body.  If not that tells us where the problem lies. 

RachelB

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2024, 15:50:57 PM »

 :laughing:  Oh I’m sure he will!  But you can use a phone and a support of some kind.  I find phones or an iPad are invaluable for fitting. I can go back and look and zoom in as well. 

For the lines, make sure you draw ALL of them on.  It takes a bit of time but it is so worth it. The horizontal lines should be at right angles to the CF or CB.  The lines on the garment should be perfectly horizontal on the body.  If not that tells us where the problem lies.
I am sure he will, too.   :laughing:  I will definitely draw those lines.  I had never thought of that, but that will help a lot.   I have to look for my tripod.  I have one, but my sewing room seems to have swallowed it up.  I will go digging and see if it is in there.

HenriettaMaria

Re: do I need to lengthen the back bodice?
« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2024, 13:47:32 PM »
If you have fiddled about with the armscye and if the garment has armhole facings or a sleeve, a corresponding fiddle to the sleeve/facing will be needed else the one won't fit the other.

It's also possible that there's nothing wrong with the garment and it's just the seam allowance that's making the armhole feel smaller, but at 3/8" I doubt that's the case here.