Making a full length flared pencil skirt

[Tall_andy]

Hi all, my daughter loves going to comic cons/cosplays, and has asked me to make a costume for her (Google: "hazbin hotel Rosie" to see an example). The bottom half is a floor length pencil skirt that flares at the bottom, so I've bought a cheap 3/4 length jersey pencil skirt, and my plan is to make the flared part myself and sew it to the bottom.

At the risk of sounding very naive, I was going to cut the two halves of fabric in a "volcano" shaped pattern, with the top matching the width of the pencil skirt and the bottom being whatever width I want the flare to be. I suspect this will be too simplistic though, so I'm looking for suggestions here.
Also, how can I maintain some semblance of shape, rather than the fabric just falling straight down? I'm assuming the flare is formed using a combination of fabric type and a more elaborate pattern than what I had in mind?
The shape doesn't need to be too elaborate or particularly accurate to the pictures (if you've googled those), but any help welcomed! TIA.

[SewRuthieSews]

Here's the cartoon image

[Ouryve]

I used to have a fishtail skirt in my yoof! Of course I got googled that and got directed to lots of mermaid dresses where the flare is achieved with gores.


You will get the flare you want by drafting a circle, though you will not get the concentric rings in the dress that @SewRuthieSews posted. I noticed that some of the artwork just has the stripe round the bottom which is more easily achieved by drafting a separate piece in the contrast colour. Just don't forget seam allowances! Googling for peplum skirt tutorials will set you on the right track for this.


Your best bet is to experiment with an old sheet (just tack the extension into place until you get the effect you want.

[weary]

You can shape the skirt with an underskirt with volume added (using net perhaps) in the lower section combined with fishing-line sewn into the hem.
Youtube search on ++ fishing line hem +++ and/or +++ curly lettuce hem +++ and similar combinations of words.

Then an element of experimentation on your (& your daughter's) part to get the desired effect!

Phil

[HenriettaMaria]

I made a fit-and-flare dress for a millionaires' night party once.  The main panels were fitted a la a pencil skirt to the knees then a flair was added below that.  From memory it wasn't a full circle - more a very wide cone - and it was pieced, although I can't remember how many pieces made up the flare.  I added net underneath to hold the flare out - basically the same shape but made with a bit of fullness so it could be gathered, and I used two or three layers.  I recall the comment of one of my colleagues when I showed up in the full rig: "You look like you've got a ferret up there!"  Well, it was Yorkshire ;-)

[Ouryve]

If your fabric has some body to it (ie if you drop it on the floor it stands up a bit rather than going splat) then you would get away with changing nothing to get it to spread rather than drape. The fishing line idea is a good one or for a quick and dirty method of stiffening the hem, try some interfacing, possibly multiple layers.


If it behaves as you want all by itself then you could experiment with a lettuce hem for a bit of waviness at the bottom. Using a net or stiffer fabric underskirt would allow you the opportunity to do this, anyhow.

[BrendaP]

My first thought was that to achieve the stripes you will have to use gores, not a circle or part circle.  Even if you do it in just two 'volcano shape' pieces you need to curve the hem and the top of the lower section.  If you are not sure what I mean cut out mini versions in paper and stick together with seloptape to see what happens with a straight hem.

If the pencil skirt is jersey then I think that you should use a jersey fabric for the fishtail section also.

[Tall_andy]

Thank you for all the suggestions, I think I have plenty of techniques to look into now. (I wanted to like your individual replies but I'm guessing I'm still too new on the forums to be able to do this!).

[Greybird]

You should be able to "like" replies. Every once it while it tells you you have already done when you haven't but that's not usual.

[HenriettaMaria]

Just found it via google - it was Butterick 3727 - the tail was two panels, judging by the line drawing on the back of the envelope and they were definitely curved pieces.

[Catllar]

Just adding my pennyworth. You can make the flare by either inserting godets onto the pattern from below the knee, so you add the volume before cutting the pieces and that way there is no seam at knee level or you can add the flare in the form of a circle with the inner diameter the same as the hem line width, however to get the stripes you are making what we flamenco makers call a canastera - basically a fancy name for gathered tiers as in a gypsy skirt.  If you are looking for a skirt with a train there is one on Folkwear ( it's listed as a flamenco bata de cola dance skirt - but it's not long enough to dance with, but would make a pretty fancy dress thing.)  I've been making them for such a long time now I don't use a pattern, I cut by eye and measurements, but this is where I'd start in your place.

[weary]

Thinking of the horizontal stripes on the lower-skirt:

If you did not want to go the 'gores/godet' construction route these contrast horizontal stripes (hoops??) might be candidates for dyeing.  I am particularly thinking of 'barrier dyeing' methods like batik or similar.   But, perhaps 'paint-on fabric dye' or 'fabric paint' would achieve the desired effect maybe in combination with a temporary (low-tack) adhesive tape to define the coloured-section edge whilst applying the dye/paint.   I must admit that I have no experience whatsoever of this last suggestion, but superficially at least, cannot see why it would not achieve the effect you are seeking.

In this scenario you would construct your lower-skirt 'cone' in the background red using the same material as used for the bodice of the garment ..... or is a blouse, (amended in the light of my final addendum para below!) and then dye the black hoops.

As ever, youtube search using relevant key words from the above will unearth 'how-to' vids.  And a little experimentation would explore the potential of dyeing the hoops into the garment

Addendum: referring back to the pic that sewruthiesews posted earlier above I have just noticed the the flared area of the skirt is actually in a different tone of red to the main 'drop' of the skirt and actually matches the bodice area of the costume.  So, you would be making your 'cone' in the bodice material anyway no matter which approach you took.

Phil

[Missie]

There seems to be a little bit of a train at the back.  If this is the case, you need to elongate the circle on one side to get that effect (think more egg-shaped).  If you are doing the stripes,  I personally would do the stripes in individual pattern pieces, based on the base shape, but don't forget to include seam allowances.

To get the shape to hold, I would either do some netting to hold the shape out or use horse hair braid in the hem.