I've made my mind up but what do you think

[Gernella]

I'm currently making the Waffle Kaneel jacket, which is going slowly because of time being taken up with the unexpected.  I'm onto the sleeves which are very close but I'm okay with that.  Trouble is I've just finished the lining and to be honest it is the opposite.  It has its own lining pattern and when I tried it on, massively loose compared with the sleeve.  With the jacket sleeve over it, it makes the sleeve look a bit funny.  I've taken it in and tried again but it makes the sleeve a bit tight on.  Oddly enough I've had the same problem with a RTW quilted jacket and had to exchange for a larger size.   

I've got enough fabric left to make another set of larger sleeves; I could stitch part of the sleeve into the body sleeve, or I could just leave the lining sleeves out and bind the armhole.  The fabric is denim drill so leaving the lining out is not a problem.

The body sleeve has not been inserted yet but the cuff has already been completed on it and there are darts in the sleeves, so not a quick job.

Anyway I've gone for leaving out.  I'd gone for this pattern in anticipation of the doing the Tosti later to get a feel of how Yuki did things.  I know that reviewers on the Tosti have said that the sleeves are on the narrow side so I was anticipating adding to mine.

Being Japanese I suspect that she designs with a Japanese head one, petite small boned body shapes, where as I'm a petite and big boned.

So, what would you have done?

[dolcevita]

I'd put an underarm gusset in to give a bit more room at the bicep and upper arm.  They are fairly quick and easy to do and almost invisible afterwards.  Saves having to re-do the entire sleeve, which is a pain.

[eclectic]

I guess in answer to your question ...'what would you have done? '
I think I would have made a toile as its a jacket... having said that I probably wouldn't have toiled the lining  which obviously does make such a difference to the end result … did you lay the lining pieces out to see how they match up to the outer pieces? all well and good in hindsight though … No point in remaking the sleeves if they are still not going to fit and would take a while for you to tweak it to the correct fit.  So you say you have left them out , does that means it's finished? a little picture please Gernella 

[eclectic]

although I would like to add …. what I think one should do , doesn't necessary mean that is what I would 'really' do …  does anyone actually make a toile up with the lining???? one should … but does one … ???

[b15erk]

I've heard of people making the lining up as a toile, never done it so don't know how it works.  I've never made a jacket either so I don't know what I would do, but DV's solution sounds the least complicated.  I've put a gusset in a T shirt sleeve before, and that worked very well.

Jessie

[Gernella]

I still can't get my head round the fact that the sleeves on the jacket and the sleeves on the lining pieces are so different in size.

The only toile I make is a wearable one.  I generally make patterns more than once, second time has any amendment and changes if I think something will look better.

Fortunately this is a type of moto jacket so no lining on the sleeve won't affect the look.  I put the sleeves in the jacket yesterday with no trouble and they look fine and the fit is okay.  The zipper placket is on so the next job is to put the lining in, finish the collar, sort the hem piece out, topstitch and finally the snaps on the neck.  In one review I saw, it was estimated she had spent 80 hours doing it although she was using faux leather.

I had to leave off yesterday early because while I was pressing the placket my finger caught a pin on the underneath and when I pulled my finger out I got a big blob of blood on the front.  I remembered DH used milk, did actually work so left it drying after a rinse on the front piece.

So no, the end is not in sight yet.  I'm aiming for the end of July, which sounds a long time but when you only get the odd couple of hours twice a week, things easily turn into marathons.

[jen]

Can’t think of any reason to have the sleeve lining different to the sleeve as far as I understand the design from the site. A jacket will usually have more ease in it than a top or dress, and a fitted jacket sleeve usually has a slightly deeper armhole than a dress sleeve. The lining in that sort of jacket is usually just fractionally bigger than the outer, so can’t you use the sleeve pattern for both?