The Sewing Place

SleeveCuff, placement position

b15erk

SleeveCuff, placement position
« on: January 17, 2020, 09:15:02 AM »
I cut out McCalls 6696 yesterday, been meaning to do it for a while, but I hit a bit of a snag when I got to the sleeves.

The fabric is a pale blue/grey linen (my be linen mix), with a broad border which is a mix of embroidery and lace.

The sleeve is cuffed, but my original idea was to leave the cuffs off, and cut with the border at the bottom.  Then, I decided I liked the cuff, so I cut the sleeve in plain fabric, with the idea of using the border for the cuff.

Unfortunately, the cuff is a very weird shape, and I really have no idea how I'll cut it.

Any suggestions?  Bearing in mind that I only have enough fabric left to cut one sleeve with a border attached.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Efemera

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2020, 09:35:06 AM »
Can you not change the shape of the cuff to accommodate the border?

BrendaP

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2020, 09:36:07 AM »
You need to cut four cuff pieces, so one pair could be lace/edging and the other pair plain fabric.  But, one pair needs to be interfaced.  Will the interfacing be noticable through the lace? or does the fabric have enough body to get away with not using the interfacing?
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

BrendaP

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2020, 09:40:08 AM »
Can you not change the shape of the cuff to accommodate the border?

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I have made cuffs of a similar shape and I don't think they would look right if they were altered.  The points/wings are designed to be on the outside of the arm.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

BrendaP

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2020, 09:43:35 AM »
It might be possible to cut the pattern piece in half (add a seam allowance) and then cut each half piece to follow the line of the lace.  The cuff seam would then match with the main sleeve seam.  The cuff facings could be cut in one piece.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

b15erk

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2020, 09:45:37 AM »
Ladies, you have raised two very good points.

@Efemera , it was the wing shape of the cuff which attracted me to it originally, but you are right, changing the shape will allow me to show the border off much better.

@BrendaP , as always you have raised a point that I hadn't thought of.  Yes, I think the interfacing will show through, so I will have to give the cuff some further thought.

I've got Kittenish Behaviour playing on YouTube, as she does a Sew Along of this dress.  Maybe she will point out any other potential problems.

I'll be back!

Jessie



Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2020, 09:50:52 AM »
Could you use the fabric itself as an interfacing?

indigotiger

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2020, 17:09:37 PM »
I'm wondering if you could use some sort of tulle netting as an interfacing inside the cuffs, so it would barely show but still add some stiffness?
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UttaRetch

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2020, 19:32:08 PM »
I watched the first instalment of Kittenish Behaviour's sewalong and was not impressed by her mentioning stay stitching the neckline after she had sewn the shoulders, yoke facing and then STRETCHED the neckline turning the 'burrito' right side out.  ><  However, eliminating the yoke is one of the several changes I intend to make to the pattern.

b15erk

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2020, 10:18:23 AM »
@UttaRetch , I used this series, mainly to refresh my memory, as it's so long since I  traced this pattern off. 

I have made some alterations of my own up to now, and I'm really pleased with how it's looking.

After reading all the comments about these, I spent Friday evening trying out how to get all the elements to work.  What I did eventually, was to cut out some of the lace insert, and arrange it on the top cuff.  I used some iron on stuff to keep it in place while I stitched it in place.  It's not perfect, and if it doesn't look good, I'll replace it with plain cuffs.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2020, 09:28:02 AM »
Looking for your opinions ladies.  I've basted the cuffs onto the sleeves, but I'm really not sure whether I like them, whether they will look better when the dress is finished, or whether to replace them with plain cuffs now?

Is this cuff detail overkill? I tried it on my arm, and I know the picture isn't good, so might it look better when the sleeve is set in?  It was difficult to hold the sleeve up, and take a picture at the same time.

Jessie
« Last Edit: January 21, 2020, 09:29:49 AM by b15erk »
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Missie

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #11 on: January 21, 2020, 09:42:39 AM »
I like that; you've done a good job there Jessie.

BrendaP

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #12 on: January 21, 2020, 09:53:01 AM »
I like the cuff with the lace on.  It will tie in nicely to the lace edges at the bottom of the dress.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Ohsewsimple

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2020, 10:21:14 AM »
I think that works well. Nice job.  Go for it! 

Tim Sr

Re: SleeveCuff, placement position
« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2020, 10:52:49 AM »
That is Lovely! I really like that! @b15erk

Tim
Sew it up, Rip it out, Sew it up, Rip it out, Sew it up...check the pattern..Rip it out!